A long row of mature palms are planted along islands in the street’s centre and shops curve a short way around into Wainui Road.
Because of Raglan’s resident population, the main street is a mix of practical stores. A supermarket, video rental and real estate agencies are interspersed with interesting shops specialising in art, clothing and gifts. Soul Shoes sell colourful footwear crafted at the rear of their shop. The all-leather uppers come in a range of earthy and summery colours, accompanied by a variety of interesting names like the Sumo, Scuff, Mushroom and G-String.
A few doors down, with a metal sheet front, is Jet, showcasing paintings and wall hangings created by local artists as well as jewellery.
Show Off does just that, with displays of stunning jewellery, and at the very bottom of Bow Street Lu Vintage sells linen, lace work, old china and glassware. Next-door, Independent Grocery Raglan NZ stocks organic supplies, artisan bread, specialty foods and freshly roasted coffee. In Volcom Lane in Wainui Road, Coastal Merchant and Kanuka sell contemporary gifts like sculptures, photographs and prints, and Right Up My Alley has antiques and curios as does Raglan Traders on Bow Street. On the opposite side of the street is gift shop Atamira and the Raglan Information Centre. Just outside of town towards the west coast beaches is Tony Sly’s Pottery Studio and Shop.
The grand old colonial building in Bow Street is the Harbour View Hotel. It was originally built in 1866, and after being destroyed by a large fire in 1902, an exact replica was rebuilt in 1903. Its charming exterior mirrors its interior, with wide kauri floorboards, paneling and large sash windows. In the Verandah Bar, patrons sit at tables supported by wine barrel bases. It is warmly decorated with an old piano and horse riding gear, and a cozy fire. Coffee and food can be eaten in the bar or you can sample a pint of the unique Raglan gold beer.
There is a restaurant, large garden bar and sports bar, supported by bands playing on Friday and Saturday nights. The hotel’s menu compliments the region, with choices of meals including snapper, salmon, prawns; scallops with seafood chowder a popular choice. Raglan has a variety of restaurants offering pizzas, kebabs, Japanese sushi and the all favorite – takeaways. Good coffee like Havana is served at café Aqua Velvet and Atomic coffee is served at The Tongue and Groove along with great café food.
At the harbour’s edge, at the end of Bow Street is a plaque commemorating the arrival of Reverend James and Mary Ann Wallis, who set up the first Christian Church in the Raglan District in 1835. To the left, at number 1 Bow Street, is one of the original cottages, shipped as a kitset home from Onehunga in 1874. It was originally used as a teacher’s residence at Te Uku School. Cliff Street to the right, curves around the harbour where old pohutakawa trees cling to the bank, with homes stretching along the other side of the road.
Just past the fire station on Wainui Road, is the Raglan District museum. The first exhibits, a pelton wheel once used to drive the Wallis flax mill in the 1860s and a try pot used to boil whale blubber, sit outside the entrance. Only open between 1-3:30pm in the weekends, the collection showcases clothing and china used by pioneering families from the 1840s onwards and has publications of Raglan County Chronicles dating from 1903. Maori artifacts are also displayed in the museum. Of particular interest is the Taiaha of Chief Te Awaitaia of Ngati Mahaanga, who was instrumental in maintaining peace in Raglan during the Waikato Wars.
Almost opposite is Stewart Street, where in the old school house, local artists sell their designware, jewellery, paintings and photographs at the Whaingaroa creative market. Held on the second Sunday of the month between 10am and 2pm, seasonal organic produce and food like pestos and freshly baked Italian breads are also sold.
Bikes, kayaks and surfboards are available for hire and there are a number of guided tours available in Raglan, like a historic tour, kayaking, habour cruises and horse trekking.
Fishing is easy off the wharf at the end of Wallis Street and surfcasting is popular at the Whaningaroa Harbour entrance, also known as Suckers Point, because the force of an outgoing tide can suck people out to sea. Around the coastal road, Ruapuke Beach is also recommended for surfcasting.
Just out of town on Te Hutewai Road, is the challenging 18-hole Raglan Golf course. It is 4,367 meters long, with grazed fairways and fenced greens, and has great views across the countryside, Raglan township and Whaningaroa Harbour. Visitors are welcome.
Beaches
Close to town in the inner harbour, off Daisy Street is the sheltered shelly beach of Cox’s Bay, which is an excellent picnic spot and safe swimming for children.
Close to the shops, Puriri Park (Aro Aro Bay) is also very sheltered and safe to swim at during high tide. On the harbour, next to Raglan Kopua Holiday Park, is a safe swimming area, a play area and boat ramp, and footbridge access into town. A few minutes out of town, Riria Kereopa Memorial Drive, a no exit road, leads to the entrance of Whaningaroa Harbour where the water meets the Tasman Sea. Baches, one shaped like a space ship, have fantastic views to the Tasman Sea. The harbour mouth is popular for surfcasting, wind and kite surfing.
Ocean Beach, also known as Ngarunui, on the Tasman Sea, runs along the harbour entrance. Road access to the beach passes four Hinuera stone sculptures representing the four compass directions. Crafted in them are images influenced by the surroundings like Hector dolphins, music and celtic knots. There is a surf club at the beach and the beach is patrolled over summer.
The road leads on the right to Michael Hope lookout, where there are amazing views both up and down the coastline. Further along is another carpark, part of the 140-hectare Wainui Reserve, where there is track access for a 10 minute walk, crossing styles and farmland to a trig. There is also a walk from here to Bush Park Wainui.
Further south, Manu Bay is world famous for its long, left-hand surf break. A carpark above the bay is the perfect spot to watch surfers catch the waves which have made the bay renowned for its international summer surfing competition. It was also the filming location of the 1966 movie Endless Summer. It has a boat ramp, and because it is sheltered, makes a good picnic spot. Further south, Whale Bay is also a popular surf beach accessed by a path at the bottom of Tohora Close, and crossing 600 meters over rocks.
South, the old coastal road becomes unsealed and curves around some tight corners to Te Toto Gorge. Looking up the gorge from the lookout positioned directly above the cliffs there is continuous lush vegetation from the coast to the top of Mt Karioi. Out to sea, there are stunning views past the cliffs of Kawhia to the chalky cliffs of Taranaki. Sunsets from here are remarkable, and on a clear day there are views to Mt Egmont.
Further south, behind Mt Karioi, are remote farms where sheep graze between old volcanic boulders. Swann Road has beach access where wading birds like pied oystercatchers, bar-tailed godwits and NZ dotterel nest.
Wild and remote Ruapuke is a rugged stretch of coastline that is known for its good surfcasting and unpredictable seas.
Walks
Twenty-five acres of Wainui Reserve is dedicated to Bush Park Wainui, a park of 15,000 plants, of which two thirds are native. Paved paths lead through bush, past steams, over bridges and a cascading water feature.
About 15 years ago, volunteers formed the Friends of Wainui Reserve, transplanting what was once neglected, overgrazed farmland into a peaceful park alive with native birds. A serene area, the park is used for picnics and walking and wedding photos. There is also walking access from the park to Ocean Beach (Ngarunui).
Bryant Memorial Walk is a 20 minute walk from the Bryant Home Crusade Bible Camp through coastal forest, passing an elegant nikau palm. The track also leads to Ocean Beach (Ngarunui).
From the carpark at Te Toto Gorge (about 30 mins from Whale Bay) is a track that descends steeply through coastal forest of karaka, kawakawa and kohekohe, to Te Toto Stream, past grassy vegetation to the shoreline. It is possible to see remnants of stone-walls used extensively by Maori.
Mount Karioi, an extinct volcano sitting 756 meters above the Tasman Sea, is a rugged backdrop to the Raglan region. Mt Karioi Track to the summit begins at Te Toto Gorge, and is two hours to the look out or, continuing on for another hour or so, to the summit. The track is known for its numerous vantage points and dramatic views. There are chains and ladders positioned at the odd rocky outcrop.
Wairake Track is the shortest route to the summit and although not as steep as Mt Karioi Track, it is as interesting. It begins at the carpark off Ruapuke Road and after a forty-minute walk across farmland, the track starts at the bushline and climbs steadily to the summit.
Waterfalls and springs
Just outside Raglan, 13 kilometers from Te Mata, is the beautiful Bridal Veil Falls. A ten-minute bush walk along a metal track beside Pakoka River, leads to a lookout above where the river cascades over basalt rock, 55 metres to a pool below. Another vantage point a minute away looks directly across to the veil-like falls and a track leads on down to the base.
Take a shovel south of Raglan to Te Puia Springs in Kawhia. Two hours either side of low tide, it is possible to dig a hole and sit in the warm water.
The springs do move about, so the best way to find the springs is to walk barefoot along the tide line wriggling your toes, until they start to warm.
Staying over
Raglan Kopua Holiday Park has a Qualmark rating of four stars. A large seaside camp surrounded on three sides by the harbour, there are 210 powered sites and 100 tent sites, a BBQ, dining area, a fish smoker and fish cleaning area provided. An automatic laundry and dump point are also provided. Bookings are essential in peak times. Handily located, there is a very good takeaways next door and a short walk across the footbridge at the end of the camp takes you to the Raglan shops. Across the road from the camp is a sheltered inlet beach.
Solscape Accommodation Centre
Overlooking Manu Bay, there are seven powered sites suitable for small to medium campervans on a gravel parking area. There is a kitchen, lounge and unisex toilets. This hill-top camp has an eco-friendly focus, extensive views of the Tasman Sea and a tranquil bush surrounding.
Kawhia camping ground at 73 Moke Street, Kawhia, is spacious and sheltered. It’s an easy walk to town, close to the boat ramp and the closest camp to the Hot Water Beach Springs. There are 14 powered sites. Excursions such as sand rover trips, harbour cruises and quad bike hire are by arrangement.
Oparau Roadhouse and Bill’s Backpackers are on Kawhia Road, Oparau, 13km east of Kawhia. Bill is happy for campervans and tents to set up on an elevated but basic sight with no shower or kitchen facilities.
Kawhia Beachside S-Cape Holiday Accommodation at 225 Pouewe Street, Kawhia, has harbour views. There are 16 sites, half with power. There is a large kitchen, a recreation room and lots of seating both inside and out. The camp is not suited to large heavy vehicles over seven metres in length.
Forest View Motorcamp at 232 Waiwere Street, Kawhia, has 31 powered sites, some with hard stands for campervans, and tent space is plentiful.
From Motorhomes, Caravans and Destinations (
www.motorhomesandcaravans.co.nz)
Author: Kelly Lynch
New Zealand - RV / Motorhome Exchange International Travel Destination.
