But the town itself looks accidental and temporary, as if grand alpine forces could, at any moment, wipe it off the map. Maori moa hunters were the first people to discover Kaikoura’s bounty. The plentiful fish in the ocean would no doubt have been as much of a lure as the moa. And it was the sheer numbers of one mighty sea creature that resulted in the first shore whaling station being established here in 1843.
Now, thank goodness, whaling is a dirty word. Instead, people who come to Kaikoura to catch sight of that bulky mammal and observe its graceful fluted dive are choked with sentiment.
We also come to Kaikoura to taste fresh crayfish and other offerings of the sea, to watch the seabirds and the dances of dolphins, and to be entertained by the seals that lie languidly on the rocks like overweight mermaids. On land, seals lounge about, stretching and yawning with lazy self-indulgence. In the water they are marvellous to behold. A bit of floating driftwood often turns out to be a seal lolling on its back, holding its flipper up as if it were examining its fingernails; suddenly it starts rolling over and over, splashing joyously.
Kaikoura can be a cold and melancholy place when the sun is not out. I remember one night, as I sat alone by the shore, the wind keened in off the sea in a despairing lament that tingled the back of my neck and sent me scuttling back to the lights of the town and the security of our caravan. But I also remember another night when I sat outside the caravan and gazed up at unfathomable depths that flashed with clusters of diamonds; and days when the mountain’s shoulders, wrapped in capes of glittering snow, rose majestically to a sharp blue sky. Sometimes the ocean was so calm it was as if it had been covered in Glad Wrap, when even from the land, I thought I might have seen a whale blow.
If the weather is kind, it is here, in this vast and powerful environment, that visitors have the sort of experiences that are hard to find anywhere else on earth.
Dolphins and seals
Many people choose to encounter these endearing sea creatures from a launch but the more adventurous can also take to the water themselves and watch them almost eye to eye in their own environment. Swimming with seals and dolphins is a wonderful thing - to see them skimming silently around you rolling and leaping and flowing through that foreign environment as if they were themselves made of liquid.
If, however, you are short of time for either of these activities there are plenty of seals to be seen from the road south of the town, frolicking in the pools or flopped on the rocks like sacks of soggy dough.
Whales
Sperm whales are the star attractions of Kaikoura, which is one of the best places in the world to see them. Around 80 solitary male sperm whales are known to visit the deep water close to Kaikoura’s shore. Of course, you don’t see them all at once, but there is a very high chance that you will see one or two from one of the tour launches or from a small fixed wing plane. Both ways of seeing the world’s largest mammals surfacing to replenish their air supply are awesome experiences. The gigantic creatures stay on the surface for around ten minutes before their stunning, slow-motion dive back to the depths of the ocean presenting the sight of their great tail flukes slowly sliding beneath the surface of the sea.
Birds
Sea birds are one of the other features of Kaikoura and a launch trip has been designed to put to sea to find them. The highlights are the albatrosses wonderful birds with three-metre wing spans and a body the size of a Jack Russell terrier. This is possibly the best place in the world to see them. And there is a rich variety of other species which feed on the rich food source that is generated in the deep underwater canyons just off shore. A sighted-species list is included in the tour.
Rides
Four-wheel adventure
Among the area’s magnificent farms is Glenstrae, a third generation, 1600 acres property of spectacular hills, native bush and stunning cliff and sea views. Quad-bike riders, who are all well-rehearsed before they leave, have the exhilarating experience of zooming over green plateaus and bucking along dusty tracks, through native bush and along shallow streams. From a high cliff’s edge is a breath-taking vista of railway creeping around the coast far below and the white fringe of sea curving provocatively against the rocks like a frilly petticoat.
For more timorous adventurers, there are thrills to be had riding in the six-seater, amphibian Argo.
Horse treks
Fyfe View has horses for beginner and advanced riders and their treks range from 30 minutes and, for experienced equestrians, three days. The scenery is spectacular, across farmland and native bush with great views and a few river crossings.
Kayaking on the sea close to the coast is a different way to see the seals. There are half-day guided tours every day that the weather behaves.
Mountain safaris
These off road 4WD tours leave from the town to cross rivers and climb through bush to ascend 100m up into the Kaikoura mountains.
Walks
The Kaikoura Coast Track is a three-day walk through bush, beach and farm land. A reasonable degree of fitness is required, but luggage can be transported and provisions bought at the huts along the way. Each evening walkers are met by their farm hosts who have lived in the area all their lives and have many tales to tell.
The Wilderness Walkway is two or three days into alpine country with luggage transported and overnight accommodation at the up- market Shearwater Lodge. All meals are provided.
Fyffe House
Walk around this simple, pink building which is the oldest house in Kaikoura and the last remnant of the old whaling days. The original two-roomed cottage, using whale vertebra as piles, was built on its lonely promontory in 1844, to house the local cooper. It has been extended by successive owners and the site on which it stands encompasses many aspects of Kaikoura’s history. The ghost of a woman in a gingham dress is said to haunt one of the bedrooms. There’s speculation that it is Mary Goodall who died in the room after giving birth to her eighth child.
Eating Out
For a small town there is a very large choice. Many places have catchy names such as Pipi’s, The Green Dolphin, the Craypot Café, Aromas, Flukes, White Morph, and Sonic on the Rocks. The emphasis in many restaurants is on seafood but there a good variety of other produce. Kaikoura also has its own winery.
Fishing
If you want to catch your own dinner there are several boat charter tours and you will probably come home with blue cod, sea perch, groper and sometimes crayfish to cook in your “wheel home”. The fish is filleted for you onboard.
Events
The most popular event in Kaikoura is Seafest, a day that showcases the food wine and music of the area and celebrates the sea and its importance to the community.
It takes place on the first Saturday of October and is now one New Zealand top food and wine festivals.
